Spicule Serums and VT Reedle Shot: Microneedling in a Bottle?

Reviews By Maya

Oct 7

6 min read

Over the past few years, a new skincare trend has taken off: spicule serums, sometimes called needle serums. The products that went especially viral on TikTok were VT's Korean Reedle Shot serums.

The promise sounds almost too good to be true: microneedling in a bottle. Spicules do have a real scientific basis, but a serum is not equivalent to professional microneedling, and the evidence for cosmetic results is still limited.

So what is actually behind this technology, how is it supposed to work, and what does the research really show?

What is a spicule serum?

A spicule serum is a skincare product containing tiny, microscopic needle-like structures called spicules.

The spicules used in this technology come from the skeletons of certain sponges. They are mainly made of biogenic silica, a mineral material produced by the sponge. After extraction and purification, what remains is a collection of tiny, rigid mineral needles.

When these are added to a serum and rubbed onto the skin, they can cause tingling or a prickling sensation during application.

How is a spicule serum supposed to work?

The idea behind the technology is fairly straightforward. In experimental settings, spicules can:

Enter and disrupt the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin.
Create microscopic pathways through the skin barrier.
Help certain active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively.

Another proposed benefit is that the tiny injuries could trigger a repair response and support collagen production. However, showing improved ingredient delivery is not the same as proving that every commercial spicule serum stimulates collagen or produces visible anti-aging results.

That is why I would be careful with the idea that this is simply gentle microneedling at home.

The scientific basis: transdermal drug delivery

Spicule technology has been studied in a field called transdermal drug delivery, which looks at ways to get substances through the skin.

This includes relatively large molecules such as peptides, proteins, biological medicines and even RNA molecules. Several studies have shown that spicules can improve the delivery of these substances across the skin barrier.

For example, this study of spicule-based delivery systems investigated the delivery of insulin and cyclosporine A.

The important distinction is that much of the foundational research investigated drug delivery, rather than whether an everyday cosmetic serum improves wrinkles, pores or skin texture.

Is it really microneedling?

Spicule serums are sometimes described as microneedling in a bottle, but there is a substantial difference between the two.

Professional microneedling uses a device to repeatedly insert and remove needles at a chosen depth. Depending on the device, treatment area and purpose, the settings may range from fractions of a millimeter to deeper penetration. The controlled injury is intended to trigger wound repair and collagen remodeling.

Spicules are much smaller, commonly measured in tens to hundreds of micrometers. Their size, how far they enter the skin and the effect they produce depend on the spicules and the application method.

They mainly act in the superficial skin layers. This does not mean that every formula is harmless or that the biological response is the same as a professional microneedling treatment. Needle length alone also does not tell us the actual penetration depth.

The limitations of the research

There are interesting studies on spicules, but a few limitations matter.

First, many of the earlier experiments used pig skin, animal models or other experimental skin models, rather than human volunteers using a cosmetic product at home.

Second, researchers sometimes used relatively large amounts of spicules or massaged them into the skin for longer than someone would normally spend applying a serum.

In some studies, the spicules were also combined with specialized carriers, such as liposomes, to help deliver the substance into the skin or its cells. That is different from simply adding spicules to an ordinary skincare formula.

Small human studies have now been published too. For example, a 2026 split-face study in 20 women reported improvements with a specific peptide-conjugated spicule regimen. Both sides received a spicule treatment, so it did not isolate the effect of spicules against a spicule-free control. It also did not test VT Reedle Shot or the SKIN1004 serum I tried.

Brands may publish their own product tests as well. Those results need to be assessed individually; an absorption test does not by itself prove a serum's long-term effect on wrinkles or stretch marks.

So we cannot assume that results from one experimental delivery system apply to every commercial spicule serum. The formula, dose, application method and study design all matter.

Are there risks?

As with any technology that disrupts the skin barrier, there are potential drawbacks. Spicules can cause irritation, redness and temporary disruption of the barrier.

A tingling sensation does not prove that a product is working, and persistent pain or irritation is not something to push through. Follow the instructions for the exact product, avoid irritated or damaged skin, and stop using it if irritation persists.

The available studies also leave questions about frequent, long-term use across different skin types. A short test of one formula does not establish the safety of daily use of every spicule serum.

My experience with a spicule serum

To get a better feel for the product, I tried a spicule serum myself.

I have not tried the viral VT Reedle Shot serum. The one I tried was a different spicule serum from SKIN1004 with 10% Matrixyl.

I did not feel brave enough to try it on my face, so I used it on my body, on my stretch marks, even though it is intended for facial use.

I felt it might be too aggressive for my face, and I did not want to take the risk. Even on my body, it felt like rubbing sandpaper against my skin.

I did not notice a change. Maybe I would have needed to go through a few bottles to see results, but I am still very skeptical.

My opinion

The scientific idea behind the technology is interesting. But in my view, there are more established methods for creating controlled micro-injuries in the skin, with treatment settings selected by a trained professional.

Professional microneedling with devices such as Dermapen.
RF microneedling treatments with devices such as Morpheus.

These procedures allow more control over treatment parameters, but they come with their own risks. In particular, the FDA has warned about serious complications with certain uses of RF microneedling, including burns, scarring, fat loss and nerve damage. They require an individual discussion of benefits and risks with a qualified healthcare professional.

There are also at-home options that do not rely on inserting spicules into the skin, including:

Retinoids.
AHA and BHA exfoliating acids.
LED masks.
Peptides.

The amount of evidence varies between these options and between individual products. They are not all suitable for everyone, either. Retinoids and exfoliating acids can cause irritation, dryness and barrier problems, especially when overused. Not using spicules does not automatically make a product gentle.

My takeaway

Spicule serums are based on a real scientific idea, but the evidence for visible improvements from cosmetic formulas is still limited and specific to the products and regimens studied.

As happens so often in beauty, the technology may be interesting while the marketing hype runs ahead of the evidence. For now, I am still skeptical.

Sources

Important notes

I am not a dermatologist or a cosmetic chemist, just someone who loves skincare. Nothing in this post should be taken as medical advice. If you have a skin condition, speak to a dermatologist.
I can't promise results. We all respond differently, and skincare involves trial and error. You need to learn what works for your own skin.
Some of the products I discuss contain strong active ingredients and need to be used responsibly. Read about a product before using it. Not every product suits every skin type.
Be patient. Many products take weeks or months to show results. Skincare takes time.
This post reflects my personal experience and what I have learned. I do my best to be accurate, but mistakes are possible. I am always happy to learn, and if you spot an error, you can contact me on Instagram.